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      Skin dark spot mapping and evaluation of brightening product efficacy using Line‐field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC‐OCT)

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          Abstract

          Background

          Facial dark spots remain a significant challenge for the cosmetic industry, in terms of providing effective treatment. Using Line‐field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC‐OCT), we investigated the internal structural features of photo‐aging spot areas and evaluated the efficacy of a skin‐brightening cosmetic product.

          Materials and Methods

          Twenty‐six Asian female volunteers, aged between 29 and 65 years, applied a cosmetic product on their entire face twice a day for 2 months. LC‐OCT was used to evaluate the dermal‐epidermal junction (DEJ) undulation and the volume density of melanin in the epidermis at D0 and D56. Skin brightening and redness were also assessed by photography (SkinCam).

          Results

          Using LC‐OCT technology, various microscopic dark spot morphologies, spanning from minimally deformed DEJ to complex DEJ patterns, were identified. Dark spots characterized by slight deformities in the DEJ were predominantly observed in the youngest age group, while older volunteers displayed a wavier pattern. Furthermore, a total of 44 spots were monitored to evaluate the brightening product efficacy. A statistically significant reduction in melanin volumetric density of 7.3% in the spots and 12.3% in their surrounding area was observed after 56 days of product application. In line with these results, an analysis of color parameters using SkinCam reveals a significant increase in brightening and decrease in redness in both pigmented spots and the surrounding skin following application.

          Conclusions

          LC‐OCT proves to be a valuable tool for in‐depth dark spots characterization and assessment of skin brightening products, enabling various applications in the field of dermatological sciences.

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          Most cited references43

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          In vivo confocal scanning laser microscopy of human skin II: advances in instrumentation and comparison with histology.

          In 1995, we reported the construction of a video-rate scanning laser confocal microscope for imaging human skin in vivo. Since then, we have improved the resolution, contrast, depth of imaging, and field of view. Confocal images of human skin are shown with experimentally measured lateral resolution 0.5-1.0 microm and axial resolution (section thickness) 3-5 microm at near-infrared wavelengths of 830 nm and 1064 nm; this resolution compares well to that of histology which is based on typically 5 microm thin sections. Imaging is possible to maximum depth of 350 microm over field of view of 160-800 microm. A mechanical skin-contact device was developed to laterally stabilize the imaging site to within +/- 25 microm in the presence of subject motion. Based on these results, we built a small, portable, and robust confocal microscope that is capable of imaging normal and abnormal skin morphology and dynamic processes in vivo, in both laboratory and clinical settings. We report advances in confocal microscope instrumentation and methods, an optimum range of parameters, improved images of normal human skin, and comparison of confocal images with histology.
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            Line-field confocal optical coherence tomography for high-resolution noninvasive imaging of skin tumors

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              • Abstract: found
              • Article: not found

              Mechanisms of skin tanning in different racial/ethnic groups in response to ultraviolet radiation.

              Ultraviolet radiation stimulates pigmentation in human skin, but the mechanism(s) whereby this increase in melanin production (commonly known as tanning) occurs is not well understood. Few studies have examined the molecular consequences of UV on human skin of various racial backgrounds in situ. We investigated the effects of UV on human skin of various races before and at different times after a single 1 minimal erythemal dose UV exposure. We measured the distribution of DNA damage that results, as well as the melanin content/distribution and the expression of various melanocyte-specific genes. The density of melanocytes at the epidermal:dermal junction in different types of human skin are remarkably similar and do not change significantly within 1 wk after UV exposure. The expression of melanocyte-specific proteins (including TYR (tyrosinase), TYRP1 (tyrosinase-related protein 1), DCT (tyrosinase-related protein 2), MART1 (melanoma antigens recognized by T-cells) gp100 (Pmel17/silver), and MITF (micropthalmia transcription factor)) increased from 0 to 7 d after UV exposure, but the melanin content of the skin increased only slightly. The most significant change, however, was a change in the distribution of melanin from the lower layer upwards to the middle layer of the skin, which was more dramatic in the darker skin. These results provide a basis for understanding the origin of different skin colors and responses to UV within different races.

                Author and article information

                Contributors
                randa.jdid@chanel.com
                Journal
                Skin Res Technol
                Skin Res Technol
                10.1111/(ISSN)1600-0846
                SRT
                Skin Research and Technology
                John Wiley and Sons Inc. (Hoboken )
                0909-752X
                1600-0846
                22 February 2024
                February 2024
                : 30
                : 2 ( doiID: 10.1111/srt.v30.2 )
                : e13623
                Affiliations
                [ 1 ] Chanel Parfums Beauté Innovation Recherche et Développement Pantin France
                [ 2 ] DAMAE Medical, Application Departement Paris France
                Author notes
                [*] [* ] Correspondence

                Randa Jdid, Chanel Parfums Beauté, Innovation Recherche et Développement, 8 Rue du Cheval Blanc, 93500 Pantin, France.

                Email: randa.jdid@ 123456chanel.com

                Article
                SRT13623
                10.1111/srt.13623
                10883256
                38385854
                02e03d21-3f35-4af6-ad09-d7d315bc5935
                © 2024 CHANEL (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

                This is an open access article under the terms of the http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ License, which permits use and distribution in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, the use is non‐commercial and no modifications or adaptations are made.

                History
                : 15 January 2024
                : 05 February 2024
                Page count
                Figures: 5, Tables: 3, Pages: 10, Words: 5591
                Funding
                Funded by: Chanel Recherche et Technologie , doi 10.13039/501100009430;
                Categories
                Original Article
                Original Articles
                Custom metadata
                2.0
                February 2024
                Converter:WILEY_ML3GV2_TO_JATSPMC version:6.3.8 mode:remove_FC converted:22.02.2024

                3d imaging,aging spot,cartography,line‐field confocal optical coherence tomography (lc‐oct),melanin density,pigmentation disorders,skin brightening product

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