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      Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

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          Abstract

          Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.

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          Dietary polyphenols, oxidative stress and antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects

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            Potential applications of ferulic acid from natural sources

            Ferulic acid (FA), a ubiquitous natural phenolic phytochemical present in seeds, leaves, bothin its free form and covalently conjugated to the plant cell wall polysaccharides, glycoproteins,polyamines, lignin and hydroxy fatty acids. FA plays a vital role in providing the rigidity to the cell wall and formation of other important organic compounds like coniferyl alcohol, vanillin, sinapic, diferulic acid and curcumin. FA exhibits wide variety of biological activities such as antioxidant, antiinflammatory, antimicrobial, antiallergic, hepatoprotective, anticarcinogenic, antithrombotic, increase sperm viability, antiviral and vasodilatory actions, metal chelation, modulation of enzyme activity, activation of transcriptional factors, gene expression and signal transduction.
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              Bioactivity of phenolic acids: metabolites versus parent compounds: a review.

              Phenolic acids are present in our diet in different foods, for example mushrooms. Due to their bioactive properties, phenolic acids are extensively studied and there is evidence of their role in disease prevention. Nevertheless, in vivo, these compounds are metabolized and circulate in the organism as glucuronated, sulphated and methylated metabolites, displaying higher or lower bioactivities. To clarify the importance of the metabolism of phenolic acids, knowledge about the bioactivity of metabolites is extremely important. In this review, chemical features, biosynthesis and bioavailability of phenolic acids are discussed, as well as the chemical and enzymatic synthesis of their metabolites. Finally, metabolite bioactive properties are compared with that of the corresponding parental compounds.
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                Author and article information

                Contributors
                Role: Academic Editor
                Journal
                Molecules
                Molecules
                molecules
                Molecules : A Journal of Synthetic Chemistry and Natural Product Chemistry
                MDPI
                1420-3049
                13 February 2017
                February 2017
                : 22
                : 2
                : 281
                Affiliations
                [1 ]Mountain Research Centre (CIMO), ESA, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1172, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal; taofiq.oludemi@ 123456ipb.pt
                [2 ]Grupo de Investigación en Polifenoles (GIP), Unidad de Nutrición y Bromatología, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Unamuno, 37007 Salamanca, Spain; paramas@ 123456usal.es
                [3 ]Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE), Associate Laboratory LSRE/LCM, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1134, 5301-857 Bragança, Portugal; barreiro@ 123456ipb.pt
                Author notes
                [* ]Correspondence: iferreira@ 123456ipb.pt ; Tel.: +351-273-303-219; Fax: +351-273-325-405
                Article
                molecules-22-00281
                10.3390/molecules22020281
                6155946
                28208818
                8a6cfbde-a7ec-499a-84b2-3ed41f220f62
                © 2017 by the authors.

                Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license ( http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).

                History
                : 22 January 2017
                : 08 February 2017
                Categories
                Review

                cosmetics,hydroxycinnamic acids,skin care,microencapsulation

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