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      Patrones en las excursiones de swash en dos playas contrastantes: Playas Hollywood y Costa Verde, Colombia Translated title: Swash excursion patterns at two contrasting beaches: Hollywood and Costa Verde beach, Colombia

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          Abstract

          Resumen La zona de swash es la parte de la playa que esta consecutivamente seca y húmeda debido al ascenso y descenso del mar producto del oleaje y la marea. Esta zona es de gran importancia en los sistemas de playas, ya que allí se desarrollan los procesos de erosión/acreción de la línea de costa y las inundaciones; por lo tanto, el entendimiento de las dinámicas que ocurren en esta zona son vitales para predecir y mitigar los posibles impactos en playas, dunas y estructuras costeras bajo diferentes escenarios climáticos. Mediciones de variables in situ como presiones, velocidades y concentraciones de sedimento en la zona de swash, fueron llevadas a cabo en dos playas en el Caribe Colombiano: Playa Costa Verde, (Ciénaga) y Playa Hollywood, (Cartagena). Los datos fueron usados para comparar los patrones de velocidades y concentraciones de sedimentos en la zona de swash debido a la influencia de la pendiente de la playa en esta zona y la influencia de las diferentes frecuencias de las ondas (infragravitatorias (IG) o Sea-Swell (SS)). Adicionalmente, se propone una aproximación para ligar pequeñas escalas espacio-temporales (ciclos de swash) con procesos espacio-temporales mayores (erosión-acreción).

          Translated abstract

          Abstract The swash zone is the part of the beaches that are consecutively dry and wet due to the rise and fall of the sea by waves and tides. This zone is particularly important in beach systems, as here erosion and accretion of the coastline and coastal inundation occur; therefore, understanding of the dynamics in this zone allows the prediction and mitigation of potential impacts on beaches, dunes and coastal structures under different climate scenarios. In situ measurements of variables such as pressure, velocity and sediment concentrations on the swash were carried out for the first time at two beaches in the Colombian Caribbean: Costa Verde beach, (Ciénaga) and Hollywood beach (Cartagena). The data were used to compare the velocity and sediments transport patterns in the swash zone due to the beach slope on this zone and to the influence of different wave frequencies (IG or SS). In addition, a first approximation to link small spatio-temporal scales (swash cycles) with larger spatio-temporal processes (erosion-accretion) was carried out.

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          Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup

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            Wave runup during extreme storm conditions

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              Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions

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                Author and article information

                Contributors
                Role: ND
                Role: ND
                Role: ND
                Journal
                dyna
                DYNA
                Dyna rev.fac.nac.minas
                Universidad Nacional de Colombia (Medellín, Antioquia, Colombia )
                0012-7353
                March 2018
                : 85
                : 204
                : 264-271
                Affiliations
                [2] Barranquilla Atlántico orgnameUniversidad del Norte orgdiv1Grupo de Investigación en Geociencias GEO4 Colombia ljotero@ 123456uninorte.edu.co
                [1] Medellín Antioquía orgnameUniversidad Nacional de Colombia orgdiv1Grupo de Investigación, OCEANICOS Colombia fer7062@ 123456gmail.com
                Article
                S0012-73532018000100264
                10.15446/dyna.v85n204.63363
                933b1c85-9944-4a19-8762-b0492a741c89

                This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

                History
                : 17 March 2017
                : 30 January 2018
                Page count
                Figures: 0, Tables: 0, Equations: 0, References: 17, Pages: 8
                Product

                SciELO Colombia


                ondas infragravitatorias (IG), ondas Sea-Swell (SS),backwash,velocities,swash zone,Sea-Swell waves (SS).,velocidades,concentraciones,uprush,zona de swash,infragravity waves (IG),concentrations

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