Wave climate and power distribution around a rocky island: Alcatrazes, Brazil

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Abstract

ABSTRACT We investigate the distribution of the wave power around the Alcatrazes island, a protected marine reserve in southeastern Brazil, located at 20 nautical miles from the coast of São Sebastião/SP. A 14-year wave time series (2005-2018) extracted from the global WaveWatch III model, was used to obtain the offshore wave climate. Based on the wave climate, a wave propagation model (Delft3D) was applied in order to obtain nearshore information. The most frequent waves are from the east, southeast and south, with heights between 1.0 and 2.0 m and periods of 7 to 10 s. Due to dominant wave direction incidence, the wave power is higher at the more exposed eastern side of the island, with its lee side becoming shadowed from the main wave trains. Magnitudes vary seasonally, with winter and autumn presenting more energetic southerly waves and consequent higher wave power along the rocky island. The wave power distribution is a consequence of the incident wave characteristics and the geomorphology of the island. Our findings are the first assessment of the local wave climate and wave power distribution along the rocky shores of Alcatrazes island, providing important background information for understanding different aspects of its functioning and management.

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Ecological consequences of major hydrodynamic disturbances on coral reefs.

Joshua Madin, Sean R Connolly (2006)

A recent tsunami and an apparent increase in the frequency of severe tropical storms underscore the need to understand and predict the ecological consequences of major hydrodynamic disturbances. Reef corals provide the habitat structure that sustains the high biodiversity of tropical reefs, and thus provide the foundation for the ecosystem goods and services that are critical to many tropical societies. Here we integrate predictions from oceanographic models with engineering theory, to predict the dislodgement of benthic reef corals during hydrodynamic disturbances. This generalizes earlier work, by incorporating colonies of any shape and by explicitly examining the effects of hydrodynamic gradients on coral assemblage structure. A field test shows that this model accurately predicts changes in the mechanical vulnerability of coral colonies, and thus their size and shape, with distance from the reef crest. This work provides a general framework for understanding and predicting the effects of hydrodynamic disturbances on coral reef communities; such disturbances have a major role in determining species zonation and coexistence on coral reefs, and are critical determinants of how coral assemblages will respond to changes in the frequency and intensity of tropical storms associated with a changing climate.