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      Structural and biophysical characteristics of human skin in maintaining proper epidermal barrier function

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          Abstract

          The complex structure of human skin and its physicochemical properties turn it into an efficient outermost defence line against exogenous factors, and help maintain homeostasis of the human body. This role is played by the epidermal barrier with its major part – stratum corneum. The condition of the epidermal barrier depends on individual and environmental factors. The most important biophysical parameters characterizing the status of this barrier are the skin pH, epidermal hydration, transepidermal water loss and sebum excretion. The knowledge of biophysical skin processes may be useful for the implementation of prophylactic actions whose aim is to restore the barrier function.

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          Most cited references46

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          Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora.

          Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH dropped from 5.12 +/- 0.56 to 4.93 +/- 0.45. On the basis of this pH drop, it is estimated that the 'natural' skin surface pH is on average 4.7, i.e. below 5. This is in line with existing literature, where a relatively large number of reports (c. 50%) actually describes pH values below 5.0; this is in contrast to the general assumption, that skin surface pH is on average between 5.0 and 6.0. Not only prior use of cosmetic products, especially soaps, have profound influence on skin surface pH, but the use of plain tap water, in Europe with a pH value generally around 8.0, will increase skin pH up to 6 h after application before returning to its 'natural' value of on average below 5.0. It is demonstrated that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0, as shown by measuring the biophysical parameters of barrier function, moisturization and scaling. The effect of pH on adhesion of resident skin microflora was also assessed; an acid skin pH (4-4.5) keeps the resident bacterial flora attached to the skin, whereas an alkaline pH (8-9) promotes the dispersal from the skin.
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            Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms.

            Water is absolutely essential for the normal functioning of the skin and especially its outer layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Loss of water from the skin must be carefully regulated, a function dependent on the complex nature of the SC. The retention of water in the SC is dependent on two major components: (1) the presence of natural hygroscopic agents within the corneocytes (collectively referred to as natural moisturizing factor) and (2) the SC intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form a barrier to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The water content of the SC is necessary for proper SC maturation and skin desquamation. Increased TEWL impairs enzymatic functions required for normal desquamation resulting in the visible appearance of dry, flaky skin. There have been recent discoveries regarding the complex mechanisms of skin hydration. In particular, it has been discovered that glycerol, a well-known cosmetic ingredient, exists in the SC as a natural endogenous humectant. Hyaluronan, which has been regarded mainly as dermal component, is found in the epidermis and is important for maintaining normal SC structure and epidermal barrier function. More importantly, the discovery of the existence of the water-transporting protein aquaporin-3 in the viable epidermis and the presence of tight junction structures at the junction between the stratum granulosum and SC have brought new insights into the mechanisms of skin water distribution and barrier function.
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              Acne and sebaceous gland function.

              The embryologic development of the human sebaceous gland is closely related to the differentiation of the hair follicle and the epidermis. The number of sebaceous glands remains approximately the same throughout life, whereas their size tends to increase with age. The development and function of the sebaceous gland in the fetal and neonatal periods appear to be regulated by maternal androgens and by endogenous steroid synthesis, as well as by other morphogens. The most apparent function of the glands is to excrete sebum. A strong increase in sebum excretion occurs a few hours after birth; this peaks during the first week and slowly subsides thereafter. A new rise takes place at about age 9 years with adrenarche and continues up to age 17 years, when the adult level is reached. The sebaceous gland is an important formation site of active androgens. Androgens are well known for their effects on sebum excretion, whereas terminal sebocyte differentiation is assisted by peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor ligands. Estrogens, glucocorticoids, and prolactin also influence sebaceous gland function. In addition, stress-sensing cutaneous signals lead to the production and release of corticotrophin-releasing hormone from dermal nerves and sebocytes with subsequent dose-dependent regulation of sebaceous nonpolar lipids. Among other lipid fractions, sebaceous glands have been shown to synthesize considerable amounts of free fatty acids without exogenous influence. Sebaceous lipids are responsible for the three-dimensional skin surface lipid organization. Contributing to the integrity of the skin barrier. They also exhibit strong innate antimicrobial activity, transport antioxidants to the skin surface, and express proinflammatory and anti-inflammatory properties. Acne in childhood has been suggested to be strongly associated with the development of severe acne during adolescence. Increased sebum excretion is a major factor in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris. Other sebaceous gland functions are also associated with the development of acne, including sebaceous proinflammatory lipids; different cytokines produced locally; periglandular peptides and neuropeptides, such as corticotrophin-releasing hormone, which is produced by sebocytes; and substance P, which is expressed in the nerve endings at the vicinity of healthy-looking glands of acne patients. Current data indicate that acne vulgaris may be a primary inflammatory disease. Future drugs developed to treat acne not only should reduce sebum production and Propionibacterium acnes populations, but also should be targeted to reduce proinflammatory lipids in sebum, down-regulate proinflammatory signals in the pilosebaceous unit, and inhibit leukotriene B(4)-induced accumulation of inflammatory cells. They should also influence peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor regulation. Isotretinoin is still the most active available drug for the treatment of severe acne.
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                Author and article information

                Journal
                Postepy Dermatol Alergol
                Postepy Dermatol Alergol
                PDIA
                Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii
                Termedia Publishing House
                1642-395X
                2299-0046
                29 February 2016
                February 2016
                : 33
                : 1
                : 1-5
                Affiliations
                [1 ]Department of Skin and Venereal Diseases, Pomeranian Medical University, Szczecin, Poland
                [2 ]Department of Aesthetic Dermatology, Pomeranian Medical University, Szczecin, Poland
                Author notes
                Address for correspondence: Magdalena Boer MD, PhD, Department of Skin and Venereal Diseases, Pomeranian Medical University, 2 Siedlecka St, 72-010 Police, Poland. phone/fax: +48 91 425 39 24. e-mail: m.boer@ 123456onet.eu
                Article
                24287
                10.5114/pdia.2015.48037
                4793052
                26985171
                d6086c8a-f280-4925-8dca-6b8cc56be3aa
                Copyright © 2016 Termedia

                This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) License, allowing third parties to copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format and to remix, transform, and build upon the material, provided the original work is properly cited and states its license.

                History
                : 21 May 2014
                : 17 July 2014
                Categories
                Review Paper

                epidermal barrier,sebum,skin hydration,transepidermal water loss,skin ph

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