A new look at old bread : ancient Egyptian baking

A new look at old bread: ancient Egyptian baking Delwen Samuel Despite abundant archaeological, pictorial and textual evidence of ancient Egyptian life and death, we have little detailed infor­ mation about the staple diet of most of the population. Now exper­ imental work by a postdoctoral Wellcome Research Fellow in Bioarchaeology at the Institute is revealing how the ancient Egyptians made their daily bread.

T he most famous accomplish ment of the ancient Egyptians was probably pyramid build ing, an activity that required skill and imagination.So why are the builders of the pyramids thought to have subsisted on coarse, chaffy , gritty bread?Many Egyptologists have portrayed this dietary staple ofthe ancient Egyptians as a food of very poor quality.It has even been blamed for rapidly wearing down Egyptian teeth.Previously, most research ers have drawn conclusions about ancient Egyptian bread from tomb art and a few examples of surviving bread loaves, but recent archaeological research has estab lished that ancient Egyptians could be as good at baking as they were at building. 1 A study of Egyptian baking has value beyond satisfying curiosity about an ancient foodstuff.Together with beer, bread was one of the most important ancient Egyptian fo ods.All members of society ate bread and it was one of the most important offerings to the gods.From harvested crop to final product, bread preparation was a daily activity that occupied much of the population.Breadmaking thus played a central role in many aspects of Egyptian life, and an understanding of bread pro duction reveals much about how this ancient society worked.
There is abundant archaeological evi dence of bread production.Bread ovens and cereal processing tools have been excavated in houses, estates, temples, and, recently, in a complex associated with the Giza pyramids.Bread loaves or magical representations of bread were commonly included in burials, as part of the essential provisions for the journey to the afterlife.Model loaves, which probably functioned as military ration records, have been recov ered fr om ancient forts.

Ancient loaves
Surviving loaves of bread provide the best evidence for ancient Egyptian baking (Fig. 1).They are often in excellent condition, because they have been preserved by com plete desiccation in Egypt's arid climate.Most loaves have been found in tombs and burial sites, although a few examples are known fr om settlements.They are rare and are held in museums scattered throughout the world, but there are probably a few hundred altogether.
Examination of a well preserved bread loaf yields much information about how it was made.Ancient Egyptian loaves come in a wealth of sizes and shapes.Often they are simply disks or low oblong mounds, but bread was also made into cones, craters and triangles.Sometimes they were formed into more elaborate shapes, such as human or animal figures.The crusts are sometimes decorated with incisions, !:! rick marks and raised strips.Occasionally the marks of fin gers and hands can be distinguished, giving a little hint of the baker who made them.
By observing a loaf with simple magni fication we can detect what is in it: inten tional ingredients such as flour, cracked grain and flavouring; as well as unwel come additions such as chaff, grit and ash.Among flavourings added were dates, figs and coriander seeds.The cereal most com monly identified in the loaves that still sur vive is emmer wheat, which today is very rarely grown.However, emmer was one of the first plants to be domesticated and it became one of the staples of human diet, especially for farmers living in the temp erate Old World.Emmer and barley were virtually the only cereals that the ancient Egyptians grew, and emmer was one of their most important crops.
Because emmer is so seldom cultivated today and is unfamiliar to many people, most of those who have studied ancient Egyptian bread have not appreciated how much it differs fr om bread wheat, the cereal now normally used for baking.Emmer is a hulled wheat, in which the grains are enclosed by tough scale-like bracts that, when threshed, produce a lot of chaff.Its ears have two main characteris tics that make it more difficult to process than bread wheat, which is not hulled and which threshes freely (Fig. 2).The central stalk of the emmer ear breaks apart fairly easily, but the chaffy bracts surrounding the grain are very tough and hard to remove.In contrast, the stalk of the bread wheat ear is tough but the chaff falls away Fi gure 2 Threshed hulled wh eat (left) and fr ee-threshing wh eat (righ t).Th e threshed hulled wh eat ear fa lls apart into spikelets wh ereas the ch aff of fre e-threshing wh eat fa lls cleanly away fr om the grain.
Fig ure 3 Women in a Turkish village de branning grain for bulgh ur using a large stone mortar an d wooden mallets, 1991.
readily.When bread wheat is threshed, it is easy to free the grain from the ear, but when emmer is threshed the ear falls apart into little packets which are known as spikelets.They consist of the grain tightly enclosed in chaff.Skilled extra work is needed to break up the chaff to free the grain without crushing it.
In ancient Egypt, cereal processing had to be carried out by hand with relatively simple technology, and the best way to find out how this was accomplished is by investigating how emmer is processed tra ditionally today.

Ethnographic examples of traditional cereal processing
Although emmer is now rare, it could until recently be found under cultivation in some remote mountainous areas in Europe, Tur key and Ethiopia.The number of farmers who cultivate emmer continues to shrink and traditional processing practices are dying out even more quickly.Fortunately, some records have been kept of how emmer used to be treated, and a few com munities still employ traditional tech niques of cereal processing.
In many areas where emmer was grown, the chaff was removed by pounding the spikelets in wooden or stone mortars with wooden pestles or mallets.The key to the process is wetting the spikelets first.The damp chaff becomes pliable and slightly sticky.Thus, when the spikelets are pounded, they are rubbed vigorously to gether rather than crushed.The chaff can become quite flexible and the grain can pop out of the spikelet under the pressure of pounding.The pounding causes the chaff to shear apart and release the grain.Once the damp chaff and grain mixture is dried, the chaff can be sieved and win nowed to separate it from the grain.

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A process similar to de-husking emmer is the preparation of Turkish bulghur, or cracked wheat, fr om which the bran (the thin covering that surrounds the kernel) has been removed.Different types of wheat can be used and in some Turkish villages the old method of de-branning is still prac tised (Fig. 3).Mortars and mallets are used and the grain is wetted prior to pounding.The result is whole grain with the bran stripped off, just as de-husking emmer pro duces whole grain with the chaff stripped away.Although not precisely the same process, bulghur-making provides a useful parallel that helps us to understand emmer de-husking.

Archaeological evidence
Is today's method of emmer de-husking similar to that used by the ancient Egyp tians?The archaeological record suggests that it is.Shallow stone mortars are com monly excavated fr om ancient Egyptian houses.In exceptional, very arid, condi tions, even complete wooden pestles have been recovered.What makes the connec tion between the mortars and emmer de husking secure is the evidence of plant remains from the site of Amarna, an ancient Egyptian city some 230 km south of Cairo that dates from about 1350 BC.
Part of the site of Amarna consists of a village located about 2 km fr om the Nile flood plain, in the highly arid eastern desert.Here, plant remains have been recovered in abundance, preserved by desiccation.Those found on archaeologi cal sites have usually been preserved by charring through contact with fire (e.g.around ovens), which arrests their decay.Under arid conditions no such intermedi ary process is needed to preserve plant fragments, which survive because they are desiccated.In these circumstances plant remains can be recovered fr om different places where they were dropped in the course of various activities.In one ancient house of the Amarna village, a mortar was discovered set into the corner of a room (Fig. 4).Scattered on the floor around the mortar was a large quantity of emmer chaff.It ranges from complete spikelets still con taining the grain, to whole spikelets with no grain inside, to shredded chaff frag ments.This is precisely the scattered remains one would expect to result from pounding whole spike lets in a mortar with a wooden pestle.
One difference between the mortars used in ancient Egyptian and most mortars used now or in the recent past is that the former were much smaller.This may have been because, unlike traditional Turkish processing, emmer pounding in ancient Egypt was done in the household, not as a communal village activity.Large stone mortars are very heavy and difficult to move.These common household tools had to be reasonably transportable for ordinary people to obtain and install them.One way of investigating how the small mortars affected emmer processing, and indeed of confirming whether the shredded emmer found in the plant remains could have been produced in them, is through exper imental replication.

Experiments with emmer processing
Many of the stone tools excavated at Amarna are in excellent condition and they presented an ideal opportunity to try experimental reconstruction of emmer processing.The equipment made from organic materials, such as wooden pestles and wooden and grass sieves, is not robust  enough to be used now.So instead I made replicas ofthese tools, based on specimens excavated from arid settlement sites or recovered from tombs.Excavations showed that the ancient Amarna villagers built elaborate mudbrick and plaster rims around their mortars (Fig. 5) or simply set the mortars into the ground with the rim protruding slightly.For the experiments, it was easiest to place the ancient mortar in the ground.Most Amarna village houses also had box-like mudbrick and plaster em placements.These raised the flat grind ing stones off the ground, making the mill ing process easier and quicker.I built a grinding emplacement that had the same construction and dimensions as the archaeological specimens.
ing and the noise made by the pestle on the contents of the mortar change when the spikelets are shredded, so it would have been easy to tell when to stop.Apart from Figure 6 The author using an ancient Egyp tian limestone mortar and replica wooden pestle to de-husk emmer wh eat.
whole grains, which would have been removed, the resulting mixture of whole spikelets and varying sizes of shredded chaff closely resembles the archaeobotan ical assemblage found around the original mortar emplacement (Fig. 7).
Although hand milling is rightly con sidered an arduous process, using an emplacement to raise the grindstone off the ground makes milling much quicker and easier.The miller is in close control of the grinding process, and the texture of the flour can be adjusted precisely.A few strokes of the handstone against the lower Pounding emmer spike lets in the mortar (Fig. 6) very quickly established that water was essential for successful de-husking.The quantity is not critical, but, if there is too little, most of the spikelets fly out of the mortar, whereas too much water makes them slosh out of the shallow bowl.It does not take long to pound a measure of emmer spikelets but it requires strength and stam ina.The ancient Egyptians who carried out the pounding had to repeat the process over and over again, because the small mortars could take only a limited volume of spikelets at a time.The feel of the pound-  flatstone produces a coarse meal, and several more strokes rapidly create a fine flour (Fig. 8).Like the pounding process, however, the milling sequence must be repeated over and over again because only a small quantity of grain can be processed at a time.Supplied with sufficient emmer fl our, the next step in the experiment was baking emmer loaves.This proved much more dif fi cult, and I have yet to produce palatable emmer bread.Emmer flour behaves quite differently fr om bread wheat, requiring much more water to make a workable dough.Each step of mixing, resting, shap ing and then baking the dough needs further investigation.The addition of such flavourings as fruits also changes the char acteristics of emmer dough.The final stages of Egyptian breadmaking are not necessarily straightforward and are still not fully understood.

New insights about ancient Egyptian bread
With the new data gained from archaeo logical, ethnographic and experimental sources, we are now in a much better posi tion to assess the nature and quality of ancient Egyptian bread.It is true that some of the loaves that survive fr om ancient times are coarse and full of chaff.However, many have a very fine texture and are clean and carefully made.Some loaves are full of coarsely cracked cereal grains, but these were added deliberately to fine-textured dough made from well milled flour.The cracked grain was pre-cooked before being mixed into the bread dough, to create a sweet, chewy texture.These loaves resem ble the multi-grain or granary loaves ):hat

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we are familiar with today.Such additions indicate the variety of bread recipes that the ancient Egyptians used and they show that their staple food was not a monoto nous product.
Ethnographic and experimental evi dence confirms that the steps required to process emmer are more complex than those for bread wheat.The Egyptians were nonetheless capable of skilfully manipu lating the tools and installations required for de-husking and milling emmer to pro duce varied and imaginative products.They were familiar with the properties of emmer flour and the methods required to produce palatable bread fr om it.
Given that the Egyptians were able to make sophisticated bread, the fact that some ofthe loaves are apparently so unpal atable, indeed inedible, needs to be explained.The context in which they were found provides a clue.Most of the loaves that survive today have been recovered fr om tombs or ritual sites connected with burial.The ancient Egyptian practice of making models of objects and servants, to stand in magically for the real thing, is well known.The chaff loaves were made fr om the byproducts of emmer bread processing and were probably intended to represent real bread; they would not have been the type of loaf actually consumed by the ancient Egyptians.As the loaves contami nated by chaff and grit were not edible, was gritty bread likely to have been responsible for the Egyptians' worn teeth?This sugges tion is very unlikely, and recent work suggests that it was some other yet to be identified element of the Egyptian diet that was responsible.2 There is still much to be learned about ancient Egyptian bread.Many details of processing, as well as possible changes in ingredients and technology over time, remain poorly understood.Nevertheless, enough work has been done to show that one of the most valued and fundamental items of diet, the loaf of bread, was a sophisticated product that was skilfully produced and satisfying to eat.

Figure 4
Figure4Th e fo undations of a house in the workmen's village at Amarna, showing the position, against the righ t-hand wall, of the circ ular limestone mortar illustrated in Fig ure5.

Figure 5 A
Figure5A lim estone mortar with a built-up mudbrick an d plaster rim, placed in the corner of a village house at Amarna (scale bar intervals 25 cm).

Fig ure 8
Fig ure8Th e author grin ding flour with an ancient Egyp tian handstone and grin d stone set in a replica emplacement.

Notes 1 .
Further information about the archaeol ogy of ancient Egyptian bread can be found in the following publications by D. Samuel: "Their staff of life: initial investigations on ancient Egyptian bread baking", in Amarna Reports V, B. J. am grateful to Barry Kemp, the director of research at Amarna, for his sup port and help.2. See J. C. Rose, G. J. Armelagos, L. S. Perry, "Dental anthropology of the Nile valley", in Biological anthropology and the study of ancient Egyp t, W. V. Davies & R. Walker (eds), 61-74 (London: British Museum Press, 1993).
An archaeological study of baking and bread in New Kingdom Egyp t, PhD thesis, Department of Archaeology, University of Cambridge, 1994.The research described here was supported by the Egypt Explora tion Society and funded by the British Academy and Scottish & Newcastle Brew-eries plc.I